How to Tile a Bathroom or Kitchen
Everything you need to know to tile walls and floors with a professional finish.
Difficulty
Medium
Time
2-3 days
Cost
£100 - £500
Before You Start
Wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting tiles - ceramic shards are razor-sharp. Use a dust mask when drilling or cutting. Ensure the surface is structurally sound - tiles are heavy and will pull away from weak surfaces. Turn off water and electrics if tiling near pipes or sockets.
Tiling is one of those jobs that looks intimidating but is actually very achievable once you understand the technique. The biggest secret is layout planning - spend an hour dry-laying tiles before you open the adhesive and you will avoid the nightmare of ending up with a tiny sliver of tile in a visible corner. A good tile job lasts 20+ years, so it is worth doing properly.
What You Will Need
Tools
- - Notched trowel (6mm for walls, 10mm for floors)
- - Tile cutter (manual scorer or electric wet cutter)
- - Tile spacers (3mm for walls, 5mm for floors typical)
- - Spirit level
- - Grout float
- - Sponge and bucket
- - Tile nipper for small cuts
- - Pencil and tape measure
- - Mixing drill and paddle
Materials
- - Tiles (measure area and add 10% for cuts/breakage)
- - Tile adhesive (flexible for floors, standard for walls)
- - Grout (colour matched or contrasting)
- - Grout sealer
- - Silicone sealant for corners and edges
- - Tile primer (if tiling onto paint or wood)
- - Timber batten and screws (temporary support)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Prepare the Surface
The surface must be flat, clean, dry and stable. Remove old tiles, flaking paint or loose plaster. For bathroom walls, use cement backer board rather than plasterboard for a waterproof, rigid surface. Prime painted surfaces with tile primer.
Plan Your Layout
Dry-lay a row of tiles along the bottom and across the middle of the wall or floor. Adjust the starting position so you avoid thin slivers at edges. Ideally cuts at the edges should be at least half a tile wide. Mark your starting point.
Fix a Temporary Batten
For wall tiling, screw a straight timber batten horizontally one tile height above the floor (or above the bath/worktop). Check it is level. This supports the first visible row while the adhesive sets. You remove it later and tile below.
Apply Adhesive
Spread adhesive onto the wall with the flat edge of your trowel, then comb through it with the notched edge. Work in sections of about 1 square metre at a time so the adhesive does not skin over before you place tiles.
Place the Tiles
Press each tile firmly into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion. Insert spacers between tiles to maintain even gaps. Check with a spirit level regularly - every three or four tiles. Wipe off any adhesive that squeezes onto the tile face immediately.
Cut Tiles to Fit
Measure each cut individually - walls are rarely perfectly square. For straight cuts, score and snap with a manual cutter. For L-shapes or curves, use a wet tile cutter or tile nipper. Always cut with the glazed side up.
Leave to Set
Allow the adhesive to set for at least 24 hours before grouting. Remove the temporary batten and tile the bottom row. Do not walk on floor tiles during this time.
Grout the Joints
Mix grout to a thick paste. Press it into the joints at a 45-degree angle using a grout float, working diagonally across the tiles. After 15-20 minutes, wipe off excess with a damp sponge. Buff with a dry cloth once the haze has dried.
Seal and Finish
Apply silicone sealant (not grout) where tiles meet the bath, shower tray, worktop or floor. Use grout sealer on cement grout to prevent staining and water absorption. Smooth silicone with a wet finger or profiling tool.
Pro Tip: Buy 10% Extra
Tiles from different batches can vary in shade. Buy all your tiles from the same batch and keep extras for future repairs. Most shops accept returns of unopened boxes.
Pro Tip: Warm the Adhesive
In cold weather, keep adhesive at room temperature overnight before use. Cold adhesive is stiff and hard to spread, and it takes much longer to set.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- - Starting without a layout plan - ending up with tiny tile slivers in visible spots
- - Using the wrong adhesive - floor adhesive must be flexible to cope with movement
- - Not back-buttering large format tiles - they need adhesive on both the wall and the tile
- - Grouting too soon - if adhesive has not fully set, pressing grout in shifts the tiles
- - Using grout in corners instead of silicone - grout cracks in corners because surfaces move independently
- - Not sealing natural stone tiles before grouting - grout stains porous stone permanently
When to Call a Professional
If you need to waterproof a wet room or shower enclosure, tile a large floor area with underfloor heating, or work with expensive natural stone, consider a professional tiler. Also if the wall or floor substrate needs major repair work first.